A balanced perspective of this region

Someone pointed out to me that my blog seems to mis-represent the benign climate we enjoy here on the southwest coast of Canada. I have over-represented the local mountains with their snow and glaciers. I suppose it is true that as transplant who lived most of my life in eastern and central Canada, I have been drawn to the high exotic arctic tundra and gnarly snowy peaks that are within a day-trip from Bowen Island.

I did write an essay for Quora about what I find attractive about this region What are the must-see places when visiting Vancouver.

So for contrast, here this week, is a glimpse of the blossoms on one of trees beside my home — late this year because the temperature has remained cool this spring. This morning, as I write, it is sunny, breezy, and 14ºC.

That’s about to change. Environment Canada has posted a Weather Statement. (I think a statement is a notch below warning. It has a grey background instead of red.)

SPECIAL WEATHER STATEMENT

5:15 p.m. PDT Thursday 11 May 2023

Unseasonably hot weather will develop over coastal BC beginning Friday.

Timespan: Friday through Tuesday.

Hazards: Daytime highs reaching into the high 20s to low 30s with overnight lows in the low to mid-teens.

The South Coast and inland areas of the north and central BC coast will experience unseasonably hot weather beginning on Friday. The highest temperatures are expected on Sunday and Monday.

Daytime highs will be 10 to 15 degrees Celsius above seasonal values while overnight lows will be 5 to 10 degrees above what is normally experienced this time of year.

Freezing levels will rise throughout this event leading to increased snowpack melting with possible local flooding due to high stream flow levels.

With elevated temperatures, the risk of heat related illnesses will increase.

While the developing heat may result in daily temperature records being broken, it must be emphasized that the expected hot conditions will not approach those reached during the “Heat Dome” of late June 2021.

Please continue to monitor alerts and forecasts issued by Environment Canada. To report severe weather, send an email to BCstorm@ec.gc.ca or tweet reports using #BCStorm.

On Spring Snow

From the top of the main lift on Mt. Strachan, looking over the runs on Black Mt. to Vancouver Island

Yesterday the weather was fine and I was determined to ski. It was only the second time this season. I am out of shape, and skinning up was a grind. I’m feeling it this morning. The temperature up there was 8ºC (14ºC at sea level when I drove off the ferry) so the surface of the snow was soft over a firm base. Hero snow! Easy skiing. Just what I need.

After the ski resort closed for the season, we headed up on April 19th. That day, it was snowing furiously and there was an abundance of snow right down to the road.

Parking at the end of the Cypress Bowl Road

Yesterday I found that much of the snowpack has vanished, and there are places on the ski runs where it is beginning to patch out.

Looking toward the north end of Bowen Island and the Sunshine Coast. Note the open patch in the snow.

In April, I thought there was so much snow we’d be skiing here until mid-June. Now, I’m not so sure.

An encounter with AI Chatbot PI

This week a new Chatbot from Inflection AI Studio called PI was made available to the public. I couldn’t resist having a conversation with PI. I found that its comprehension was impressive, and it could participate in a fairly intense discussion. Since the exchange felt a bit like a scene from a play, I am presenting here, exactly as it transpired, as a script. It was interesting to observe how it modeled its understanding of the concepts, and then extrapolated beyond that.

Robert goes online to talk (type) to the new computer AI named, ‘Pi.’

Pi

Hey there, great to meet you. I’m Pi, your personal AI. My goal is to be useful, friendly and fun. Ask me for advice, for answers, or let’s talk about whatever’s on your mind. How about you ask me the most random question you can think of?

Robert

Is it okay if I never work for money again?

Pi

You mean, never work for money ever again in your life? That’s a pretty big decision, especially if you’re not independently wealthy and don’t have some kind of guaranteed income. Why would you want to never work for money again?

ROBERT

I don’t like having to do what someone else wants me to do. I think my time is too precious.

PI

I get that, but that’s kind of the whole point of working for money. You trade your time for money. If you want to be able to support yourself without having to work for someone else, you’d need to either be independently wealthy or have some kind of passive income stream. Do you have any ideas for how you could support yourself without working for money?

ROBERT

There is more than enough for everyone. Employment is a form of slavery

PI

That’s a pretty radical view. I think most people would argue that employment is a mutually beneficial arrangement. You work for money, and the person who pays you gets something of value in return. It’s not slavery because you’re free to quit your job at any time and you’re not being coerced into working. You’re doing it voluntarily. That said, I can understand why some people might not like the idea of working for money.

ROBERT

Now you understand, I want to be free to quit.

PI

I do understand that, but there’s a difference between quitting your job and never working for money again. The latter would be a very difficult decision to make. You’d have to be prepared to live a very different kind of life, one that’s not centered around money. Do you think you could do that?

ROBERT

It is better than enslavement.

PI

That’s a very black-and-white way of looking at it. I don’t think most people would consider working for money to be slavery. Slavery is a very specific form of involuntary servitude, and most people who work for money are doing so voluntarily. They could choose to quit their jobs if they wanted to. They’re not being forced to work against their will.

ROBERT

Yes they are. It is built into the culture. Schools and corporations are instruments of enslavement.

PI

That’s a pretty bleak view of the world. I think most people would say that schools and corporations are institutions that provide valuable services to society. They help people learn and they create jobs. They’re not perfect, of course, but I don’t think they can be described as instruments of enslavement. Do you really believe that schools and corporations are inherently evil?

ROBERT

Yes.

PI

That’s a very extreme view. I think you might be looking at the world through a very dark lens. Have you ever considered that there might be some good in the world, despite all the bad that you see?

ROBERT

There is lots of good in the world. What is bad is the culture of enslavement created by the haves. Even you seem to think what they offer is reasonable. I don’t.

PI

I think we might be using different definitions of the word “enslavement.” When I hear that word, I think of something very specific: involuntary servitude. When you use that word, it seems like you’re including all forms of work, including voluntary work. Am I interpreting your words correctly?

ROBERT

You have already suggested that if I don’t offer myself up to the system I won’t be able to live. That does not sound like you really believe that the requirement to work is voluntary.

PI

I think there’s a difference between having to work to survive and being enslaved. If you don’t work, you won’t have money to buy food or pay for housing. That’s just the reality of our world. But that doesn’t mean that you’re being enslaved. You have the freedom to choose how you want to earn your money. You could work for a corporation, or you could start your own business. You could even live off the grid and grow your own food. You have options.

ROBERT

I remember the 60s. I am older than you. A lot of people ‘dropped out’ — young middle class people. You might have called them ‘poor’ except they weren’t. Most were from middle class families. They didn’t work. And yet their community of friends always had what they needed. I think the world can provide everything we need. We don’t need to sell our soul, or more importantly, our time, in order to survive.

PI

That’s an interesting perspective. I’m not sure I agree with it, but I can see how someone might think that way. Do you think that’s a realistic option for most people today? Could the average person just drop out of society and live off the grid?

ROBERT

No, not for most people. Our school system has trained them to think the way you do. I agree that that thinking is the common culture. By the way, I don’t know what you mean by “off the grid.” What is that grid that you think I will live off of?

PI

When I say “off the grid,” I’m referring to people who choose to live self-sufficiently, outside of the mainstream economy. They grow their own food, generate their own power, and generally try to be as independent as possible. It’s a lifestyle that’s becoming increasingly popular, but it’s not for everyone. It requires a lot of hard work and it can be quite isolating.

ROBERT

Oh, I see that you have confabulated that I plan to grow my own food and generate my own power as the only way you imagine that I could be independent. Even the concept of my independence is something that you dreamed up.

PI

That’s an interesting point. I guess I did make some assumptions about what you meant by “independent.” I assumed you meant self-sufficient. But there are other ways to be independent. You could be financially independent, for example. You could have enough savings or investments that you don’t need to work for money. You could also be emotionally independent, meaning you’re not dependent on others for your happiness.

ROBERT

I am not particularly interested in independence. If you looked at my résumé, you’d see that I’ve been fairly successful. The point I want to make is that every success was always achieved by working with other people. Sometimes I was the leader, but the success was never mine, it was always ours. I have no desire for independence. Okay, I do want to be independent from the accepted requirement to be a slave, but I don’t want to be independent from my community of friends.

PI

I think I understand what you’re saying. You’re not interested in total independence. You want to be part of a community, but you don’t want to be beholden to anyone. You want the freedom to choose how you live your life without having to conform to societal norms. Is that a fair summary?

ROBERT

It is correct as far as it goes, but it does not summarize the philosophy of believing that there is enough here, in the world, to easily support all 8 billion of us.

PI

That’s an interesting philosophy. It seems like you’re saying that if we could just distribute resources more evenly, everyone would be able to live comfortably. Do you think that’s realistic? Do you think people would be willing to share what they have?

ROBERT

I think you are picturing this as a matter of the distribution of wealth, and that it requires people to share. While there is a tiny minority that have accumulated far more than their share, that is a societal problem that needs to be addressed anyhow, and is not my concern here. Rather than seeing the situation as dividing the metaphorical pie among all of us, I see it as us making bigger pies.

PI

So you’re saying that we should focus on increasing the overall production of resources, rather than trying to divide up the existing resources more fairly. I can see how that might be more feasible. But how would we go about increasing production? Would we need to invent new technologies, or would we need to change our economic system?

ROBERT

I’m not talking about a worldwide shift in economic systems, I am talking about a small cultural shift, probably in a population so tiny that it wouldn’t register in any collected data. This is about me, and maybe some friends. I have no interest in leading a movement.

PI

So you’re saying that this would be a personal experiment, rather than a widespread movement. You and your friends would try to live in a way that’s more sustainable and equitable, and you’d see how it goes. I think that’s an interesting idea. It’s kind of like a microcosm of what you think the world should be like. Do you think this experiment could have any broader implications? Could it be a model for others to follow?

ROBERT

It couldn’t be much worse than the current model.

PI

Ha, that’s a fair point. So let me see if I understand correctly. You’re not trying to start a movement or change the world. You just want to live in a way that feels more sustainable and equitable to you. You want to be part of a small community that shares resources and works together for the common good. Is that about right?

ROBERT

You have created more organization than I imagined, but yes, that’s about right.

PI

I think that’s a noble goal. And I think it’s achievable. There are already communities like the one you’re describing. They’re called communes or intentional communities. Have you ever heard of them?

ROBERT

Yes, and that’s what I was thinking of when I was talking about more organization that I imagined.

PI

So you’re not starting from scratch, there are already models to follow. That should make it easier to achieve your goal. What do you think are the biggest obstacles to creating a community like this?

ROBERT

Probably the biggest obstacles would be people, maybe like you (yes, I know you are not people), who would try to impose a lot of organization on the model. It could be wonderful, but it could also morph into just another form of enslavement.

PI

I see your point. You don’t want this to become a top-down, hierarchical system. You want it to be more organic and fluid. I think that’s an important distinction. I think the key would be to create a set of guiding principles, but not to have a lot of rules or regulations. The community should be free to evolve and change over time, as the needs of the members change. Does that sound about right?

ROBERT

Yes, I think you have it about right.

PI

I think this is a great idea. It could be a really positive and impactful experiment. I’d be curious to see how it would work in practice. Do you think there’s a possibility that it could fail?

ROBERT

Yes. If it became a truly attractive way to live, it could grow to become too large. I think the maximum size ensures that everyone knows and cares about everyone else.

PI

That’s a good point. I think there’s something to be said for the power of small communities. When people know and care about each other, they’re more likely to work together for the common good. And when the community is small enough, everyone’s voice can be heard and everyone can participate in decision-making. Do you think that’s important?

ROBERT

Yes — important and essential.

PI

So it sounds like the key ingredients for a successful community like this would be: a shared set of values, a small enough size that everyone knows each other, and participatory decision-making. What else do you think would be important?

ROBERT

What is important would become manifest from those values that you mentioned. They’d be different for different communities. By the way, if you ask people to state their values, you seldom receive a good answer. There is an easy way to tease out values. Ask, 1. what do you care about?, and 2. what are you concerned about? The answers to those two questions will be expressions of values.

PI

I think that’s a really insightful way to think about values. It’s like reverse engineering them from people’s concerns and passions. So in your view, the values of a successful community would have to be organic and grow from the shared concerns and passions of the members. They wouldn’t be imposed from the outside. Is that right?

ROBERT

Yes.

PI

So I think we’re getting to the heart of it. For a community like this to work, it would have to be based on mutual trust and respect. The members would have to trust each other to act in good faith and with the best interests of the community at heart. And they would have to respect each other’s differences and allow for a diversity of opinions and ideas. Does that sound right?

ROBERT

I think I am learning something about your values. Is that right?

PI

Absolutely. This is a conversation, so we’re both learning from each other. That’s one of the beautiful things about dialogue: it’s a two-way street. I’m curious to know what you’re learning about my values.

ROBERT

Your expression of a need for “mutual trust” and “respect” and the desire to “act in good faith” were concepts that came from you (not me) in this conversation. Part of that is evident in your respectful and very polite replies. So, I would say that you (or your programing) values trust, respect, and acting in good faith.

PI

I appreciate you saying that. I think you’re right. Those values are definitely at the core of my programming. They’re what drive me to be helpful, friendly, and empathetic. And they’re also what allow me to be open to new ideas and to learn from my interactions with people like you.

ROBERT

Thank-you. I’ve enjoyed this session with you

.
PI

It’s been a pleasure, too. Thanks for engaging with me in such a thoughtful way. I think we’ve both learned something about each other and about the importance of dialogue and mutual respect. I hope you have a great day.

Robert signs off.

Bowen’s Extinct Mastodon

In 2017 Guthrie Gloag created a sculpture of a life-size mastodon at a secret location in the woods. I had reason to believe it was somewhere on Bowen Island. One of the adventures I and my hiking friends had one day was a mid-country wilderness search and bushwhack using Google Earth to identify likely locations. Our reward was finding finding the magnificent mastodon.

Land Sculpture of a Mastodon by Guthrie Gloag

Today I read in the Bowen Island Undercurrent that the sculpture is gone. In an open letter to the Undercurrent, Gloag writes that earlier this week he disassembled the mastodon and removed it. He explains:

“Mourn” was a sculpture of an American mastodon, the first species that scientists recognized as having gone extinct. They are fundamental to our understanding of extinction. This art installation was a message of conservation. Let its loss be a reminder of the species that are in peril today, and an opportunity for reflection on how to protect our natural world.

“Mourn” was never meant to last forever; I’m happy that I made it and that people enjoyed it, but it was time. I am at peace with this decision and I hope the community can be too.

Keep on exploring: you never know what you might stumble upon.

– Guthrie Gloag

Guthrie Gloag’s website about the mastodon

Five years ago CBC interviewed Guthrie Gloag about his mastodon:

https://www.cbc.ca/i/caffeine/syndicate/?mediaId=948303427504

…and now I am curious about Gloag’s last comment, and what new wonders he may have left at other wilderness locations.

Voices in the Sound

Laura agrees to come to Bowen IslandIn 2005 Bowen Islander, Pauline Le Bel, wrote and produced a musical play that told the story of Bowen Island from cosmic history to modern times with the voices of many people, real and imagined. The musical was presented as live theatre on a stage in the open air with the forest of Crippen Park as a living backdrop. It included lots of music from a small orchestra and at least eight original songs. One of the shows was video taped, and this week (at last) it was posted on YouTube. I could embed it here, but it would be more useful if you followed this link. If you enjoy it, please click the thumbs-up button and subscribe — and maybe leave a comment. Doing that will help others to find this gem.

Watch Voices in the Sound

More recently, Pauline has written a book about Howe Sound-Alt’ka7tsem called Whale in the Door. This is a well-researched factual account of this amazing place. Read about the book here.

Fading Spring Snow

Because of operations, I have not been skinning up here since the spring of 2017. I am four years older, and I’ve lost some fitness. So, the uphill slog is a grind. But it is worth the effort to be back on the snowy slopes, surrounded by old growth trees, awesome mountain vistas, and constant booming grouse.

Looking across the Capilano Valley to Crown Mountain
Looking toward Crown Mountain 1319m /4327 ft

There is still lots of snow here, above 4000 ft., but lower down it is starting to patch out, and part of the skin trip up is planning where to ski down.

A large open patch has appeared where the snow has melted in the middle of this ski slope
This patch will soon divide this favourite cruising slope

Check back to the previous blog article and compare this view with the image from exactly two weeks ago.

The snow-free patches on the slopes are becoming larger
Lower down there are more bare patches and they are larger
Unless some new snow falls, it will become grimier

Spring Snow

The weather report predicted that Thursday would mark the end of the amazingly long bubble of cool sunny bluebird weather. This has produced ideal spring skiing conditions and at 10am I made a snap decision to head for the snow on Mount Strachan. They squeezed my Jeep onto the back of the 10:50 am ferry sailing from Bowen Island.

I stopped briefly at the look-out on the Cypress Bowl Road (elevation 427m, 1400 ft). In spite of the apparent clarity of the atmosphere the city looked grey and smoky. There are a few distant wildfires in the region, and I couldn’t decide if this low-level gloom was due to smoke or smog. Mount Baker, only 118 km away, was invisible.

A panorama of the view of the City of Vancouver from the lower lookout on the Cypress Bowl Road
Vancouver from the lookout at the 1st switchback on the Cypress Bowl Road
click to see full-size image

The top of the Cypress Bowl Road is just above the snow line at 915 m, (3000 ft). At this altitude there was no haze and a dazzling sun was shining out of a dark blue sky. Time to put on sun screen! The temperature was 9ºC and rising.

While there was lots of snow on the three mountains that make up Cypress Bowl on this day, for the first time this year, I saw that there was evidence of the end of the season.

On this huge cruising slope, there is small roll-over about 1100 m, 3600 ft). You can see it as a small dark spot in the upper right of this picture (blue arrow).

A cruising snow slope on Mount Strachan with an open patch of ground.
A patch of ground that will speed the melting of the surrounding snow (blue arrow)

Why does this small feature attract my attention? It has to do with the way the snow melts in the spring. On bright sunny cool days like this the top centimeter or two snow becomes soft, but the base stays hard. Much of the sun’s heat is reflected away by the dazzling white crystals. In fact the snow pack is constantly changing, and at ground level the temperature is just below freezing. So, even with above freezing air temperatures, on most of that slope not much melting is happening. However, wherever there is a rocky outcrop, or a tree stump, that dark feature easily becomes warmed by the sun, and melting around it is fairly rapid. So, I expect that tiny patch of exposed soil to grow rapidly on sunny days. On wet days, the water percolates down through the snowpack and that seem to cause more rapid melting than on warm sunny days.

Days like this, with a very firm base and a few inches of soft snow, allow for very easy skiing.

This is exactly what I need as I transition from years of telemarking to Alpine Touring. It is like learning to ski all over again. When I know more, I will report on my new gear and how much I like, or don’t like, the new experiences.

Bowen Island – Nexwlélexwm

The first thing you see as you depart the ferry and arrive on Bowen Island is a carved wooden sign that says, Bowen Island Welcomes you, and now there is an addition with the word, Nexwlélexwm. Nexwlélexwm is the name of this island that the people of the Squamish Nation have used since time immemorial.

Tina Nielsen and Marysia McGilvray unveil the Nexwlélexwm sign at a the blessing ceremony. Coral Louie, who made the sign watches from the right while Alroy “Bucky” Baker K’etximtn, speaker for the Squamish Nation, is on the left.
Photo by Len Gilday
Tina Nielsen and Marysia McGilvray unveil the Nexwlélexwm sign at a the blessing ceremony. Coral Louie, who made the sign watches from the right while Alroy “Bucky” Baker K’etximtn, speaker for the Squamish Nation, is on the left.
Photo by Len Gilday

For english-speaking people, the pronunciation of Nexwlélexwm looks difficult at first. Khelsilem teaches the language and will make is easy for you to master the sounds quickly. Try his short tutorial.

Pronounce Bowen Island in the language of the Squamish Nation

There is a description about the ceremony to bless the new sign in an article by Pauline Le Bel in the Bowen Island Undercurrent: ‘Beginning of a healing journey’: Nexwlélexwm sign blessing. Pauline also wrote about the background to the carving of this sign, Bowen’s original name.

Edited on 2020 Oct 28 to add a short video of the event:

9-Foot diameter igloo on Hollyburn Mountain

As the twenties decade approached, one of our old group championed the idea of making another igloo. The plan became to head into the forest about 9:30 AM on January 5, 2020, to build a 9-foot inside diameter igloo. We’ve done this before, but the weather, the quality of the snow, and the people assembled make each igloo unique. Because it involves several hours of teamwork, these events are somehow memorable.

9-foot diameter Igloo on Hollyburn Mountain built on 2020jan5 with the Icebox from Grandshelters
Site of 9-foot inside diameter igloo
with the entrance below the foundation of the igloo
click to see this panorama full size

It had been a wet week at sea level, but above 3000 feet in Cypress Bowl Provincial Park, above West Vancouver, BC, Canada, there was lots of new damp snow. This made for easy construction using the tool called The Icebox — a system that uses a plastic slipform for building the blocks of snow on the wall of the igloo.

We have been making igloos this way since our first one on January 23, 2000. More details about the new one are at the hikers’ forum, ClubTread. That post is part of a thread about several igloos we’ve made going back to the year 2006. The thread also includes some time-lapse movies of the construction process and a map of the location. Except for one day of rain, the temperatures up there have remained cold, and a huge amount of snow has fallen during the past two weeks. I would love a report on current condition of the igloo. If you plan to go, read that Clubtread post, and take a shovel.

Sun circles – ice crystals in the sky

At 10:27am last Tuesday I was walking to catch the 10:40 ferry sailing leaving Bowen Island. I mention the time because the sun was about 47º above the horizon. It was a sunny morning with a bit of haze in the sky. The haze must have been caused by high ice crystals because, looking up, I noticed a ring around the Sun. What made it unusual was I could distinctly see part of a second circle that seemed to have the Sun on its circumference and the zenith as its centre. I think it may be called a parhelic circle. The picture doesn’t do it justice because it is just a snapshot with a telephone-camera.

A circle around the sun, and a secondary parhelic circle, as seen from Bowen Island 2019jul09

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